Sunday 30 December 2012

Why is Korean architecture so unappealing?

From the outside they are angular, grey cubes, filled with oversized, opaque windows. Inside, glossy and unnatural wood panelling gives no remote hint of imitation. Plastic flooring proudly heats the cold. But Concrete walls radiate it, and the heat in the summer. Metal-framed windows shut out the winter, shut out the seasons. Modern Korean buildings are ugly and badly designed.

There are practical reasons for this. These buildings are cheap and easy to construct. Rapidly increasing urbanisation has meant people need somewhere to live fast. The booming economy means their inhabitants don’t need to worry about the air-conditioning and heating bills. But this doesn’t explain why modern Korean buildings are so ugly.

Korea’s Confucianist principles play a significant role. They dictate austerity and practicality, so there is no historically based tradition of building anything attractive.
Korean temples are bland compared to their counterparts in other parts of Asia. The royal palaces in Seoul are large and sprawling but show little aesthetic flare.

Korea’s neighbours, or perhaps Korea’s relationship with its neighbours, have also influenced Korean architecture, albeit indirectly. Koreans are very keen to distinguish themselves from the Chinese and Japanese. When rebuilding after the war, Korean architects outrightly rejected their architectural styles.

This also means that they must disregard their own traditions. China’s significant cultural influence means that old-fashioned Korean buildings have a very Chinese appearance, and apart from being impractical in the modern world, their appearance is inappropriate.

But Korean architects cannot look to the West for inspiration either. Japanese colonial architecture copied Western and European buildings of the time down to the finest detail. For a Korean, a quaint 19th century train station is a brutal symbol of tyranny and oppression.

Without any historical aesthetic tradition to draw from, and a total rejection of all other architectural styles, it is no surprise that Korean buildings are so unappealing.
Growing wealth coupled with unequal supply and demand, Korean architecture has become a horrid mishmash of any and every tradition. It combines a total rejection of the past with a steadfast continuation of Korea’s long standing principles and ancient beliefs.

Modern Korean cities are blocky grids, practical yet characterless. But don’t be deceived. Behind the endless coffee shop chains, past all the white and grey cars, inside the dull buildings the Korean spirit still dwells, stronger and more powerful than ever.

Sunday 16 December 2012

Guide to studying Korean in Korea

Courses
Part time courses are great for the basics like saying hello and asking how much. It's also important that you do your homework for them, because you don't get that much class time. But they will only take you so far.

Full time courses are intended to get you to a high level of proficiency in regards to academic work like writing and doing presentations in a university environment. Often they are based around the TOPIK test. These courses are much more intensive and will teach a lot of vocabulary and grammar as well as conversational basics.
You can get a 6month or year student visa very easily for the full time courses

Costs
Full time course costs vary depending on where you apply. The most expensive I found was Yonsei University (in Seoul) which was W 1,600,000 for 10 weeks. The cheapest(obviously not in Seoul) I found was 1,000,000 for 10 weeks.

Part time course costs depend on how many hours a day, and how many days a week. But expect a minimum of 100 000 a month.

Rent really varies, but I would say it can costs upwards of 200,000 a month for a crappy studio apartment in a cheap city, to probably a minimum of 350 000 a month in Seoul. Remember there's also a deposit, normally minimum of 1,000,000. And bills are negligible (max. 50,000 a month)

Korean life (for full time students)
Living In Korea as a foreigner is very easy, and Koreans are very welcoming. The university I attended provided excellent customer service and care, so if it's your first time in Korea, don't worry. The university should help you find accommodation and even organise travel arrangements.
Korea is a modern, first world country with all the luxuries and of home, like phones, fast food, clubs etc. It also has a fantasitc train and bus system which is affordable and efficient, putting the rest of the developed world to shame.

Part time work as an English teacher, is easy to find and you can actually earn a higher hourly rate than full time! At the moment the law says a student can work legally 20 hours a week. You will need all the necessary paperwork (criminal check, degree certificate) to work legally, just take them to the immigration centre and start working immediately

In terms of homework expect a lot. And I recommend you do it too. Learn vocabulary every day, and factor this as an extra hour after class.

Which university?
I attended an awful university and really wasted my time and money for the better part of a year. I would recommend doing 6 months and then seeing how much you're learning. By that stage, provided you're a motivated student, you can just learn Korean outside class!

To Seoul or not to Seoul?
If you want to live in a more globalised, modern, happening city with a lot of things going on all the time, then you should study in Seoul.
If you want a more "authentic" Korean experience and don't want to meet so many foreigners and perhaps don't mind a quieter old fashioned way of life, then I don't recommend Seoul.
I didn't live in Seoul and loved it, but some people really didn't and I can see why.

After your studies: working In Korea
To put it simply, if you're a foreigner there are three kinds of jobs available to you in Korea: English teacher, US soldier, South East Asian factory worker. Outside Seoul there are no other job opportunities. In Seoul there are a tiny amount, but they are extremely hard to find. You probably don't believe me, but after a year you'll see what I mean. Oh sorry I forgot, you could be a russian prostitute